Adjustable Pocket Diaper

 

Click on any photo to enlarge

Pocket diapers are one of my favorite styles: a stay-dry liner backed with a waterproof layer is stuffed with a soaker that pulls out to make washing and drying fast and effective. This cover is easy yet fast to sew, and it adjusts with your growing baby! It's like sewing a simple pillow, but inserting elastic into the seam allowances before turning it right side out.

Use any type of rectangular cloth soaker inside the cover such as layers of flannel or terry rectangles sewn together, flat folds, etc. Unstuffed, these covers make great swim diapers.

Supplies List

Favorite Diaper Pattern (or make your own custom pattern here)
1/2 yd flexible, waterproof diaper cover fabric (suggestions: PUL, Supplex nylon such as for swim shorts, windbreakers, felted (hot washed and dried) 100% wool or wool/acrylic blend such as from sweaters. Take apart sweaters, swim shorts, or thrift store clothing to get fabric, or order online.)
3/8” cotton swimwear elastic
Fasteners (suggestions: sew in or set in snaps, Velcro, fabric ties, buttons, etc)

Sewing Instructions

1. First, use any pattern for a diaper that you know fits but has plenty of room to grow. Cut 1 layer of stay-dry lining (polar fleece, Power Dry, Alova suedecloth, etc), or regular diaper fabric such as flannel, and 1 layer of waterproof fabric like PUL, Supplex nylon, etc. I have never tried a pocket diaper with felted wool, but feel free to experiment.

2. (If using Velcro closure, attach hook side of tape to front of waterproof outer layer now.) Using a 5/8" seam allowance, sew around the edge of the diaper leaving a hand-width hole in the back for turning the diaper right side out and stuffing. Start at the back near a wing, backstitch well, and sew all the way around to the other back wing and backstitch, thus leaving a hole. If desired, use a narrower seam allowance on the wings: the 5/8" can go all the way around, or just on the back, front, and legs where the elastic casing will be.

3. Clip curves around wings only. Do not clip or trim the seam allowances on the back, front, or legs as this is where the elastic casings will be.

4. Using the hole in the back, turn the diaper right side out just enough to allow the unsewn seam allowances on the back of the diaper to fold to the inside.

5. Stitch the seam allowance down. Repeat for second layer. This forms the elastic casings for the back.

6. Edge finish the seam allowances on the front and legs ONLY to form the casings for the elastic. Do NOT edge finish around the wings.

7. Cut 5 pieces of elastic 5" long for S,M, or L, or 6" for L or XL diapers. The larger the diaper size you start with, the longer the elastic can be as it needs to be long enough to adjust to the final size of the diaper. Using a safety pin, insert elastic into 2 back casings, 2 legs casings, and front casing.

8. Pull the elastic all the way into the casing and stitch one end down, leaving the safety pin attached to the other end. Cinch the elastic down to about 3.5-4" long for NB, S, or M, 4-5" for M or L, or 5-6" for L or XL. Leaving the tail hanging out of the casing, stitch down the elastic and remove safety pin. Repeat on other casings.

9. Turn the diaper right side out and attach fasteners, making sure they don't go through any casing, especially if stitching on Velcro. I prefer snaps on the side of a diaper, and I add more as the baby grows. But front closure, Velcro, or even diaper pins can be used depending on the fabric choice. If using Velcro, attach the loop side to the front of the waterproof outer layer BEFORE sewing diaper layers together in Step 2.

10. To fit or adjust diaper as baby grows, try on baby. Turn diaper inside out (as much as possible with fasteners blocking ability to completely turn back out), attach a safety pin to the elastic tail, unpick the few stitches on the tail side of the elastic, let some of the elastic slide into the casing and restitch. If the elastic is lost inside the casing, either use a tube-turning hook to catch the end and pull back out, or unpick the casing a few stitches to get a safety pin attached and feed the elastic back to the end of the casing.

Patch Children’s Knees

Since this isn’t a first aid blog, we all know I’m talking about the knees in kids’ pants. It probably would have been shorter to just say pants knees in the title, and then I could have saved myself all these extra phrases. But alas: I should just continue with the project before I lose all credibility.
Sewing patches onto pants knees is a frustrating challenge even on big and tall men’s jeans, and the smaller they get, the more impossible the task becomes.
This is a quickie-but-goodie project. Not only can we be frugal and save some clothing, but by adding decorative patches, they look like trendy handmade or boutique jeans instead.
Even jeans have only one flat-felled seam, usually the inseam. The outseam is just a regularly stitched seam that is easy to open out. Rip the stitches from the high thigh, low hip area down to the calf area, as long as needed to comfortably get a single layer of fabric onto the machine.
Prepare a patch: this is where creativity comes into play! A plain rectangle out of similar fabric sewn on with a double stitch is fine, or practice your appliqué skills. Use similarly colored scraps for a subtle tone-on-tone effect, or use different colors or prints of fabric for more contrast and interest.
Once finished applying the patch, stitch the side seam closed again, and then zigzag close to the edge. I never bother serging it back together as the zigzag will never be seen, and it serves the purpose of preventing the seam allowance from fraying.
So a simple technique of opening the seam allows for easy and creative knee patches. I know I’m not the first to have invented this, and believe me, I wish I had read it somewhere before I tried to patch children’s pants with one leg scrunched up on my machine and trying to turn corners! I was lucky to get any patch on, much less something not terrible, much less something cute!

Hooded Toddler Towel

These make great gifts, especially with the hoods decorated, but most importantly they hang on a hook. If you’re like me (and by that I mean you have a tribe of people living at your house and towel bar space that is at a premium is actually not because everyone just throws their towels on the floor anyway), then these towels are incredibly convenient! Plus, the toddler can’t whine that her towel fell off and you can’t fix it because you’re swaddling the baby in one arm and combing another kid’s wet hair with your other hand while…well, you only have two hands.
Easy enough for a beginning sewing project with very few seams: the biggest challenge is the fabric thickness. Use thin towels if you’re just starting out.

Supplies List

1 Full-size bath towel (can use beach towel for pool time or larger children)
1 Square washcloth, matching towel or contrast color
12 inches Trim, Lace, Piping, etc OR Applique or Embroidery supplies Small pieces Wonder-Under if doing fusible appliqué Fabric scraps Applique or Embroidery design
Large needle, 100/14 size

Sewing Instructions

Fold washcloth in half with braid on short end as shown. Stitch 1/4" seam on short end as shown by arrow.

For getting over bulky seams or getting started sewing a thick seam, use a button reed, as shown (AKA "hump jumper"). Anytime sewing over a thickness that raises the front of the presser foot higher than the back, this tool is useful, like sewing jeans seams, buttons, etc. A folded piece of paper, fabric, or a needle case work well also. Begin stitching, and the reed will just pop out the back as the feed dogs move the fabric forward. Another tip for getting started on this thick fabric is to grasp both thread tails and pull as you begin sewing.

Turn the seam to the inside and open out washcloth as shown. The seam is the back of the hood: turn the washcloth over.

Fold back excess washcloth to form cuff. The less you fold back, the deeper the hood will be, but usually fold it back to meet the edge at the back of the hood. Baste short ends of cuff. This is the time to sew any trim or appliqué over the long edge of the cuff. You can insert piping or lace, tack the cuff in place with a bow or patch, sew trim or lace over the top edge, just below the edge, be creative! I've seen some with ears inserted in the cuff seam and animal face appliquéd or embroidered on. The important thing is the secure the cuff somehow. You could even just stitch it down, or use a blind hem, though of course that wouldn’t be as fun!

Next, pin the back (seam side) of the hood to a long edge of the towel. Match the center back of the towel with the center back seam of the hood. Make sure you pin right sides together. You want the fluffier side of the towel against the child, so it's the inside. Stitch the hood onto the towel using the smallest seam allowance possible on this bulky fabric. You don't need to finish the seam in any way as the edges of the towel and washcloth are already finished. This will be the least pretty part of the project that no one will ever see.

Now it's done! Ready for the your child to wear, or ready to gift wrap.
To fold for storage or gifting, fold the towel in half the short way to let the hood form a square and stick out from the edge. Fold the hood down onto the body of the towel and continue to fold the towel into quarters as usual.

Custom-fit Cloth Diaper Cover

If you’re frugal, cloth diapers are great to have on hand whether you exclusively use fabric or paper disposables. Every baby gets diaper rash, and often changing from type of diaper to another can help ease the discomfort. Every baby gets diarrhea and goes through a huge pile of disposables in a day. Every baby sometimes uses the last diaper, so keeping a stash of cloth in the car, diaper bag, or at the house prevents a mad dash to the store.

If you cloth diaper exclusively, this is an easy yet fast cover to sew.

Use any type of cloth diaper inside the cover such as layers of flannel rectangles sewn together, flat folds, contoured inserts with elastic at the sides, fitted diapers, etc.

Unstuffed, these covers make great swim diapers.

This pattern can be adapted to create other types of diapers. For fitted diapers using flannel or cotton, cut 2 layers and stitch in an absorbent core before sewing the layers together. For all-in-0ne diapers cut 1 layer of waterproof fabric and one layer of fleece and stitch an absorbent core to the fleece before sewing the cover layers together.

Supplies List

Large paper for pattern Pins Pen 1/2 yd flexible, waterproof diaper cover fabric (suggestions: PUL, Supplex nylon such as for swim shorts, felted/hot washed and dried 100% wool or wool/acrylic blend such as from sweaters. Take apart sweaters, swim shorts, or thrift store clothing to get fabric, or order online.) Elastic (suggestions: 1” wide fold-over elastic, 3/8” cotton swimwear elastic.) Fasteners (suggestions: sew in or set in snaps, Velcro, fabric ties, buttons, etc)

Create a Custom Pattern

First, trace off a pattern from a diaper that you know fits. My first pattern was created from our regular brand and size of disposable diaper, or you could use a cloth cover that you already have or borrow. To do this, lay the diaper over a piece of large paper (newsprint, freezer paper, etc) on the carpet and stretch out the elastic, pinning it down as you go. The pins poke holes in the paper, marking the pattern.

Trace the pinholes with a pen. Add 2 notches to each side about where the wings begin to mark where the elastic is on the traced diaper. The black outline is the original pattern, the red line shows the desired alteration after the first test cover was fitted. Since you used an existing diaper for the pattern, feel free to make alterations before and after making the first cover.

Sewing Instructions

This is where your available supplies and preferences come in. Use things you already have, or invest in some PUL fabric and long-prong or plastic set-in snaps from the internet.

Cut the diaper cover fabric out, transferring notches. The sweater shown was washed and dried on hot to “felt” it. Start with an adult size sweater to allow for some serious shrinkage! Plus, it makes a fun science experiment for the kids. Place the back on the lower ribbing, just like a disposable diaper has, and cut 2 diapers at once. Felted wool covers need to be waterproofed every so often by soaking them in hot water with a glob (how’s that for technical?) of lanolin melted in. Pure lanolin is available over the counter from the pharmacy, but you have to ask for it in the back. I guess that's where the counter in over the counter hails from. Many other ointments also contain lanolin and are suitable for waterproofing.

If using wide FOE (foldover elastic), cut along pattern lines as marked. If using swimwear elastic, add 3/8” to edge of pattern all the way around for folding allowance to cover the elastic. If using start sewing at a leg notch, stretching the FOE tightly between notches as shown on image labeled “elastic.” Do not stretch the FOE on the wings of the cover. Round off corners of wings to simplify going around them, or stitch the FOE close to a corner, machine needle down, lift presser foot, turn the cover, and with awl or seam ripper fold the FOE inter a miter. Lower presser foot and continue sewing. Similar to creating a mitered corner with any binding. After sewing around entire diaper, fold under raw edge of elastic 1/4” and stitch down. If using swimwear elastic, start sewing at a notch, stretching elastic tightly. Backstitch at the next notch and cut off the elastic. Repeat for all 4 elastic areas. Then turn under all edges and zigzag hem to cover the elastic.

To stretch elastic while sewing, you can either measure out how much you want, or just stretch as you go. Mark the desired finished length on the elastic, but do not cut it off: you need a “tail” to hold while stitching to the mark. Hold the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, and with the NEEDLE DOWN use your right hand to stretch the elastic the desired amount. Press your right-hand fingers (shown using the left thumb instead) to the sewing machine bed to make sure you are not pulling on the fabric and move your fingers toward the presser foot to allow the machine to feed evenly. The photo shows using clear elastic on a wool cover. I do not cover the elastic on thick wool, I just leave it exposed. Clear elastic is smooth and does not rub the baby’s skin like cotton elastic, but it doesn’t stand up to hot washing like cotton. The technique for stretching the elastic while sewing is the same for FOE, cotton/braided elastic, etc.

Fitting and Fastening

Add 2 fasteners to each corner of the back wings, and try on cover to mark the location of the mates on the front of the diaper where needed, depending on the type of fastener used. Always add a layer of fabric behind fasteners to stabilize the cover, especially under buttonholes, unless using snaps on thick covers such as felted wool. Most prefer the long prong set in snaps or plastic snaps that require a snap press (either a small press used with a hammer or a large lever press). There are many places on the internet to send your covers to have snaps applied if you don’t want to invest in these. Large sew-in snaps also work. If using Velcro, sew the loop section across the front/tummy or on the sides of the front wings, and attach the hooks to the sides of the back wings. For fabric ties, use bias tape or turned spaghetti tubing. Sew one tie onto the back wings, and one tie to the desired location on the front of the diaper. Alternatively, create a buttonhole in the back wings near the tie to pass the front tie through. Use buttons accordingly: large, flat buttons work best.

Experiment with different styles of elastic, fabrics, and wing styles. Some like side snapping such as the diaper shown, some reduce the front wings, extend the back wings to create a front snapping style. Try extra long back wings for a center-front snapping style. Try sewing the wings instead of using fasteners for a pull-on style. You can also add an inner layer to the cover, a fleece rectangle attached only at the front and back, not the sides, to create a pocket for adding the absorbent insert.

I personally prefer the side-snapping style as shown, stuffed with an insert sewn from stacked rectangular layers sewn together only at the short ends. The open sides allow for better washing and drying. My top layer is fleece to keep the skin dry, followed by several layers of cotton flannel and 1 or 2 layers of microfiber terry towel. Sometimes I stitch elastic to the sides of the inserts to create a contoured insert, leaving the sides open above and below the elastic.

Asian Baby Carrier Instructions

A very easy to sew, easy to put on, and versatile carrier. For carrying baby on back facing in or out, or on front facing in or out, or on hip facing in or out.

Supplies List

Since the pieces are long and narrow, the recommended amount of fabric has enough width for 2 carriers. 2 15-20" fabric rectangles for body of carrier 2-2.5 yds fabric for straps Batting, thin foam, or fiberfill (optional) for padding shoulder straps Zipper (optional) for zippered storage pocket Fabric suggestions: Heavy canvas, cotton duck, drill, or upholstery fabric Lighter weight can be used, but make sure the straps are stitched securely and straps stabilized to keep them from bunching up when tied.

Dimensions

The basic shape and dimensions of the carrier. There are many slight variations and modifications (like adding a storage pocket, padded straps, padded headrest, etc). The curved top is optional, as is the amount of the curve. It is for a headrest for younger babies. It can be flipped down out of the way or flipped up for more private nursing. The length of the straps depends on your preferred method of tying, but this length should cover most variations. The width of the straps depends on your shoulder size. You don't want the straps so thick and padded they slip off the shoulders, but not so thin and flimsy they dig in. The length and width of the body depends on the size of the baby and personal preference. Experiment to get things just right, especially since the fabric recommendations are enough for 2 carriers. These are fast and easy to construct, and people offer to buy them from me all the time so I can keep just the ones I really like.

Sewing Instructions

There are many ways to assemble this. The right way is the way that you like best, whether it's the easiest, most attractive, or fastest. This is just a basic variation.

There are many other methods to make straps. However you choose to make the straps is fine.

1. For turned tubes (easy to sew but difficult to turn as it is suitable only for heavier-weight fabrics), cut strips of desired length twice as wide as needed. Put raw edges together and stitch around 3 sides leaving one short end unsewn. For lighter-weight fabrics, cut straps four times as wide, fold in half and baste, then fold in half again and stitch. Turn tube and press.

Optional: to pad straps, lay straps across shoulders and mark just past the shoulder, near the collar bone in front and the same distance in the back. The padding should just cover the shoulder and not pass under the arms, as this causes discomfort when wearing as a “ruck sack” in back carry.

Add padding: once marked, sew across the strap at the lower mark, stuff, then stitch across the strap at upper mark.

2. Another option is to sew folded (unturned) straps, which is suitable for heavier-weight fabrics, and should be done with lighter-weight fabrics. Cut strips four times as wide. Press raw edges toward center, then press in half and stitch close to one long edge. This gives four layers. You can insert fiberfill as above, or wrap batting or foam into the strip and topstitch down the center of the strap to keep padding in place, similar to a backpack strap.

This method is similar to inserting tassels in pillow corners and is suitable for lighter weight fabrics. Lay straps on body right side of body, straps toward center and raw edges together as shown (the more strap is hanging off the edge of the carrier, the more will be available for security stitching in next step). The angle at which the straps come off the body depends on personal preference. I put mine on close to 90 degrees, top straps going almost up, bottom straps going out, but it's up to you. 45 degrees is average. Attach straps. Sew other rectangle on top, right sides together, leaving part of one edge unsewn for turning. Straps will be between the rectangle layers.

Turn carrier right side out. The straps will now be on the outside. Secure straps through all layers as shown by sewing about a 4" square and X. For heavier fabrics, especially if you don’t want the stitching to show on a fashion fabric layer, you can secure straps to only one layer of heavy fabric and attach second rectangle of fashion fabric leaving corners free. Turn right side out and topstitch corners in place. You can attach the straps to the outside of the carrier only instead of between the layers. Any design you choose will work as long as the straps are secure.

Tying Instructions

The most basic way to tie for front carry is to tie bottom straps around waist like an apron (double knots, no bows!). Bring top straps up over shoulders one at a time while holding baby with one hand (this takes practice), cross in back, bring around to front and tie a knot under baby's bottom or across baby's back. For facing out, tie straps under baby’s arms across chest.

For back carry, lay out carrier on a sofa and place baby on. Sit on edge of sofa and double knot bottom straps around waist. Bring top straps over shoulders, snugging baby up, and pass straps under arms “ruck sack” style or cross over chest. Pass straps under baby’s bottom and bring around to double knot in front.

Be creative! Add custom details like a pocket on the body of the carrier or on the strap to replace your diaper bag, a fabric strip on the strap for a toy/accessory bar. Add another outer layer to the body of the carrier, leaving the bottom open, to form a pocket when turning carrier inside out to stow the straps.

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Email me a photo of you wearing your baby when you've finished your carrier, and I will post it here to share ideas!

Easy Knit Nursing Top or Dress

This style of dress uses an elasticized top for nursing your baby: no slits to "aim" for! This is my favorite nursing access, and nearly all my nursing wear is this style. I call it the "overlap" style because the top overlaps on the bust to create the nursing opening. These instructions assume you are familiar with sewing knits and T-shirt construction. If you are comfortable with these techniques, this dress is a very easy extension on those.

Supplies List

Tracing medium (I use free newsprint end rolls from my local paper, but anything you like will work. Try freezer paper, wax paper, or even newspaper). Tracing wheel Pen Scissors or rotary cutter and mat Sewing ruler Basic T pattern, shirt or dress Basic skirt pattern if converting top to dress 2 yards 60" fabric with at least 25% stretch Matching thread 15-20" 1/2" Elastic 15-20" clear elastic (optional) OR enough foldover elastic to bind edges

Pattern Instructions

1. Start with a basic T-shirt or dress pattern that you've adjusted to fit. The pattern should have zero ease, but a little larger or even negative ease will work. To have a very loose dress with this nursing style you need to have a bust large enough to hold up the underlayer. I've used KS Sewing the Easy Way Basic Knit Top. You can see here how I've traced on a smaller armscye to my basic pattern to make it from a regular casual T-shirt into a more stylish "knit top" size. To do this, just line up the shoulder points, pivot the smaller size scye out so it's even with the side seam, and trace the new, smaller scye onto your larger size top. True the side seam and cut. Use the smaller sleeve size as well, remembering to adjust for length if needed.

2. Next I built in some bust fullness. This technique works best for a B,C, or D cup and is found in more detail in Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing Step-by-Step p. 128. Mark your bustpoint on the pattern (seen here by the X, now split apart). Slash the pattern along this line, insert filler paper, and spread 1/2". Build out the side 1/4" at the bust point, tapering to just below bustline. When sewing the side seam you will ease this portion onto the back, building in fullness to go around the bust. This is just a dart that is eased rather then sewn at the side seam. If larger than a D cup, it's best to do a full-bust adjustment with a dart. The method pictured here will still work, but the results won't be as flattering as a darted style on such a fitted top. For very large busts, put in several darts: one unsewn in the armscye, one unsewn in the neckline, two sewing into the side seam, etc. The overlay for the top is cut off at the natural waistline. This will work fine and cover well, but there are variations on this guideline depending on bust size, ease, and design style. For the turquoise dress in this example I cut the overlay shorter, directly under the bust, and bound the edge rather than hemming. Experiment to seem where you like the length best, what's most discreet, and what's easiest to access for nursing. For the first try, this guideline will work well.

 

3. If you're starting with just a top pattern it's necessary to add a skirt at this point for a dress. This nursing style works well for shirts also, but I prefer dresses in the summer for cool, one-piece dressing. For this dress I chose a gentle A-line skirt from a dress pattern I like. I've also used a basic straight skirt. Many other types of skirts will work, but a two-piece skirt with a straight waist (not gathered, etc) is the easiest. This style will work with many types of sleeves, necklines, and skirts once you know how to make the basic style. Mark the natural waistline on the basic top pattern (the part where it's the smallest) and line up with the waistline on the skirt piece. Trace as one unit, truing/smoothing the side seams if necessary. Use the dress size that best matches your hips, and begin tracing where that dress size matches the top. In this example, its just below the waist, above the hip.

 

4. Now you have a finished dress front pattern. Use the same method to make the back pattern for the dress. This pattern will work for a basic T dress without nursing openings.

5. At this point we have to make the adjustments to add nursing access. You underlay cutting line should be below the sleeve notch, but above the underarm. This attaches the underlay in the bottom of the armscye seam to help keep it from sagging, but is low enough to make access easy and to keep the elasticized top of the underlay from pulling the sleeve off-grain. I've added a contouring dart the the center front of the underlay to conform it to my bustline. I basted in the dart to my first dress and transferred the final size to my pattern.

6. Lay out your pattern. You can see here how I let the center front of the pattern pieces hang off the folded edge of the fabric. This knit is much stretchier than what I normally use for this pattern, so I wanted the dress to be a little narrower to incorporate the greater stretch factor. This is certainly not a scientific way, but it works for me! This is a large repeat print, so I laid out the bodice first to get the design placement I wanted, then laid out the skirt pieces and sleeves. It was a mistake to put the large white flowers over my bustline, but live and learn! A small, all-over pattern works best for this style as it camouflages the overlay hem. A dark background with small print also helps disguise and sewing mistakes or milk leaks! Fold up the basic top at the overlay line and cut out the piece. Fold down the dress front piece at the underlay line and cut out the piece. Cut dress back and sleeves as normal.

 

7. The dress is pictured here flat, before sewing side seams. This is to help "see" what is needed during construction. Sewing construction order follows. Elastic has been serged to the top of the underlay. The underlay seems quite saggy at this point, but stitching the side seams will pull it taut. It WILL stay up, I promise!

 

Sewing Order

A. Sew one shoulder seam and bind neckline or attach ribbing. Close other shoulder seam and tack seam allowance. OR Close both shoulder seams and finish neckline in desired way with ribbing, band, turn and stitch, etc.

B. Bind or hem overlay. If hemming, insert narrow elastic in the casing formed by the hem and slightly stretch to keep the overlay snug. If binding, foldover elastic works well and serves the same function as the elastic to keep the overlay snug. Do not use the dryer with foldover elastic as it wears out quickly from the stress of nursing and the heat of the dryer. If using a twin needle for the hem, tie the threads at the end to prevent them from pulling out. Make sure your thread knots tying off the twin-needle stitching do not get cut off by the serger when sewing the side seams later. If those knots are cut off there is nothing to secure the bobbin stitching, and the hem will pull out.

C. Attach elastic to top of underlay/skirt. Cut a piece of elastic 1/2"-1" shorter than underlay. Larger busts need less stretch in the elastic, smaller busts need more stretch. Secure elastic on one side of the underlay. Serge or zig-zag the elastic across the top of the underlay, stretching as you sew, matching middle of elastic to center point on dress.

D. Baste the underlay/skirt to the overlay/bodice, matching underarm cutting line as shown. Draw up the basting threads to ease in the dart.

E. Bind or hem sleeves. Again, if using a twin needle make sure your serger does not cut off the tied thread ends.

F. Attach sleeves. Stitch sleeve to armscye, flat, before sewing side seams.

G. Sew side seams using method in step #6 above, making sure to ease front bustline to dress back. Make any slits needed at this point. I like a vent on either side of my skirt hem for walking ease and to avoid popping the hem stitches when I stretch the hem out while sitting on the floor with my little ones.

H. Stitch the contour dart in the center front of the underlay. Baste it in and try on after the dress is completed. Once a final size is determined, stitch with regular stitch length and cut away excess. This step is optional, but sometimes desirable to contour the underlay to the bust and help keep it from sagging. I have also included side darts near the outside curve of the bust in addition to or instead of a center dart.

I. Mark up hems and press. Stitch using zig-zag stitch, or twin needle on the sewing machine or coverhem serger for more professional results.

If you can get wooly nylon thread, use this in the bobbin or serger chain: it stretches and is stronger than regular thread, and will prevent the stitches popping out under stress.

To secure thread ends of twin-needle stitching, leave very long thread tails. (Since I have slits on either skirt side seam, this hem is not stitched in the round.)

Pull both top threads to underside by gently tugging on bobbin thread to pull a loop of top thread to the underside. Draw out loop with a pin or seam ripper. Tug on bobbin thread again to pull a loop of the other top thread and draw through. Even if you backstitch a few stitches you can still pull your threads to the underside fairly easily. Tie thread tails in a square knot. Thread tails into a large-eyed needle and work back underneath stitching as shown in middle photo. You can secure the thread tails here as well, if desired. Finally, use Fray Block on any knots tied to ensure they don't work themselves out. The Fray Block tube even matches my dress fabric! If the hem will be crossed by another seam that will be serged, make sure the knots don't get cut off by the serger knife. Don't twin-needle stitch all the way to the cut edge of whatever you're hemming to keep it away from the knife. This may seem like overkill, but I have a big problem with my twin-needle stitching coming out when the bobbin thread comes loose and wiggles out. You may have less of a problem with this and may only need to tie off and use Fray Block, or tie off and thread end under. I for one do not have time to be mending, so while it takes a few minutes to get all these thread tails secured, it takes less time that redoing a hem that's pulled out!

The completed dress: this style has a shorter overlay to make it look like an empire-wasited dress, but to do this you have to elasticize the overlay rather than a simple hem. There are many other styles which are appropriate for this nursing opening, so be creative!

To nurse, just lift the overlayer and pull down the underlayer for access. When finished, just pop the underlayer back up. No more trying to fit through little slits or pulling your shirt out of whack to get access.

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